The title of this post comes from an inside joke. I recently visited a colleague and wandering around the compound was a short, old drunk man. He greeted others and myself and said something in his drunken, mumbly English/Kakwa/Arabic. I mostly just looked down, waiting for him to go away, but then he lifted his hand in the air and lingered for a minute until he went on to greet the next person.
Later I asked my friend, “Did you see that guy? I’m pretty sure he was acting like he was going to slap me.”
She joked, “Maybe he wanted to give you a welcome to South Sudan.”
“But I’ve been here for two years already and I’m on my way out…”
“Well, maybe it was a welcome and bye! Ka-PASH!” [insert hand motion and raucous laughter]
It’s true. The time has come that I’ll be leaving South Sudan. I wasn’t sure what to do for this post until I thought to maybe sum up the two years with a few facts and figures instead of actually summing up the two years and leaving you bored with 50,000 words to read.
So, here we go:
Number of boda (motorbike) accidents: 3
I don’t know if I can count any of them for real, especially since one was basically just falling over into the mud at an almost complete stop. It was more embarrassing than scary. I guess overall I just lowered my standard of safety for bodas (sorry Mom) and just crossed my fingers whenever we entered a really sketchy part of the road. Did you know they just give out a standard/general license in South Sudan? Yeah they’ll give anyone a license, whether you’re driving a big rig or a motorcycle. They’re all the same though, right?
Animal metaphors learned: 5+
I love this. Whenever someone gets annoyed or wants to explain an individual’s problem in a certain way, they might compare the target of their disaffection to an animal. Some examples:
- “He has ears like a Warthog!” (he doesn’t listen)
- “This person goes and comes back just like a pig” (She doesn’t remember well and learn lessons from mistakes)
- “A snake never digs it’s own hole” (meaning that a person won’t do something for him or herself but will ride on the back of others or wait until something is already in place).
Cards received from people at home: 100+
Plus three or four packages. The post box I use is actually that of a friend whose family resides in Uganda. So basically my stuff has to go to Uganda first (which is anywhere from 2 weeks to 2 months) and then come to South Sudan whenever he comes back for a visit or I go there. A number of people wrote me that “they hope that I’m doing well in Uganda.” Oops. I don’t live there.
I became that saavy expat who knows the right people and where things are in town
Ok, not really. I lack that special talent needed when it comes to finding rare things like food or cheese (which I realize is also food, but it’s a very important and rare kind of food here)… But I DO know how to get ladies in the market to find things for me when I’m too lazy to look. And one of the area’s pork suppliers found me personally to give me his card when he set up his business. I also became BFF with the people in immigration and the memory in my phone for contacts is surprisingly full (even though I hate talking to people on the phone). Basically, I’m a pretty big deal.
I also know one of the skeeziest hotels in town. Ok, actually I just wanted an excuse to bring that up because I think it’s hilarious that a place can be rumored to house so many prostitutes and still have the name which, when translated, means, “God is here.”
I met people from over 20+ countries:
Speaking of expats, I’ve run into a lot of them. Besides the US and South Sudan, I’ve met people from Zambia, Sudan, Ethiopia, Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, Congo, South Africa, Zimbabwe, Ghana, Germany, the UK, Ireland, Holland, Switzerland, Ukraine, Russia, Nepal, India, Norway and Canada (does that count though?). It’s really funny when you run into other foreigners or white people in town that you don’t recognize. These were my reactions in the 2 years:
–The first six months: “Do I really greet them just because they’re white like me? That seems racist somehow…”
–The middle twelve months: “Oh hi! My name is Jillian, I work on Maridi Road. How long have you been here? Where are you from? Where do you work? How long will you be here?”
–The last six months: “. . .” >> This is when I’m too cool to acknowledge the presence of other foreigners that I don’t know because I’m sooo much more culturally immersed than they are and besides, everything they say will just be SO ignorant and show that they JUST don’t know anything… and besides; one of us will just leave in a few months. So I’m too pretentious and we’ll probably never see each other again. What’s the point?
I learned Juba Arabic and greetings in about 8 different languages.
…and I subsequently forgot most of them. But hey, it was fun to laugh with people as they tried to teach me how to greet in their mother tongue.

YES. This is a chief from one of the localities. I love this photo because 1. He’s great in it and 2. He’s like a walking advertisement for Mountain Dew
I can essentially now fake my way at least around Equatoria with my “local” Juba Arabic. The language is something of a pidgin language because some of these words don’t make sense. i.e. kulu (KOO-loo) = all/everything. kulu kulu = never ever … You’d think repeating the word would be adding more emphasis, but it’s actually something a bit opposite. There are some other fun examples like hiloo (HEE-loo) Mushakil (moo-SHA-keel) when literally translated means “sweet fighting,” but in context actually means “resolving a problem.”
Still the language is affected so much by other local languages and it becomes more like classical Arabic the farther north you go. It’s pretty obvious that it’s not a very unified lingua franca for the county, which has peoples who speak hundreds of different languages.
At least I can also hear a few Arabic words now when they speak in movies!
Some travels in East Africa:
Christmas in Kampala was nice. I also went on a Spring trip to Nairobbery, Kenya with my boyfriend and although people ripped us off a lot (I’m so bad at negotiating prices, I hate it), we didn’t get robbed even once by poo-flinging street children! I only managed to reach one other town in South Sudan (besides the capital, Juba) when I traveled to Torit to visit a friend. That’s where I realized that Yei is excellent since the average temperature has to be about 20 degrees lower than that place and no scorpions… I’ll be traveling to Rwanda (by bus through Uganda) and leaving for America from Kigali. Just hoping not to get hijacked on the way there and we’re golden!
So, I’m selling most of my things, packing up my bags and getting ready to head out! I’ll miss the hospitality, eating with my hands, the giant cucumbers and the feeling of patriotism for the people who are so proud and excited to live in the world’s newest nation. I made a number of new friends that have become like family and hopefully I was able to leave a mark at my organization. Thanks South Sudan! I hope to see you again someday!






















